Thursday, June 20, 2013

NAPOLI

Napoli.  We had a decent rush to our train at Termini, to try and make a Napoli train that at least landed before 12 pm.  We used the self service machines for our first usage of the Rail Pass, which would turn out to be a very unwise decision.   The train to Napoli wasn't bad, except for the 15 minute delays.  Ritardo.  We decided to go to the National Archaelogical Museum of Naples first, rather than go to Pompeii first.  But first, we ate lunch at Pizzeria Sparita, which was near the museum.  It was hands down, one of the finest pizzas I've ever had before, and it was only 3 euros.

The waiter liked speaking English with us, and we were in awe of how good the Margherita pizzas were.  After that, we went to the museum to look at everything I've seen before. We of course started off at the Secret Room, filled with all the erotic art and sculptures excavated from Pompeii.

Before looking at all the Pompeii mosaics, it's still amazing how well preserved this stuff is. Some pieces even look brand new.







The Farnese statue collection is full of big pieces, like the Farnese Bull and the Farnese Hercules statue.







After this, we had to get from Piazza Cavour, back to Garibaldi where the station is. When we went to buy tickets for the Circumvesuvania, we were informed that the workers were going to be going on strike at 5 and it was already 3 pm.   But we talked to the tourist beause information lady who informed us we could take the Cirumvesuvania to Pompeii Scavi and take a regular train from Pompeii to Napoli Centrale.  I guess because the Circumvesuvania is run by the Government of Campania, while the other train is run by Trenitalia.  But anyways, Pompeii was still amazing to see.  Did the major thing like the Forum, Amphitheatre, and the Villa of the Mysteries.  We kind've blazed through everything though, so we didn't get to explore all the ruins.




























When we got back to the exit, the taxi drivers were offering to drive us back to Napoli, but the info guide at Pompeii said to ignore that, because the drivers will rip us off. So instead we asked the driver to take us to Pompeii station for a flat 10 euro fee.  It probably would've been cheaper with the meter running, but whatever.  He liked my Napoli shirt, so that was neat, and he loves going to New York City.  Anyways, once we got to Napoli Centrale, we had like 4 minutes to catch the fast train to Roma, so we sprinted our asses off, and eventually made it onto the train, but we had to walk pretty far to find an empty four seater carriage.  But because we used the self-service machine in the morning, we never got our passes stamped, or activated.  So the attendant informed us there was a very big problem.  Our passes weren't stamped, and we didn't have a seat reservation. Luckily, he understood our problem, and was very nice about it.  What would've  been a 60 euro fine for not having a valid ticket, and sitting in a seat. He changed into an 18 euro fee. 10 for the train ticket, and 8 for sitting in a reserved seat.  It would've been 10 euros anyway for a seat reservation, and I would rather pay 8 euros than having to wait another hour for a slow train, that would've taken 2 hours to get back to Rome.  We actually used the bus to get back to Trastevere because I figured out what bus we needed, H. So it was pleasant not having to walk, and not paying a taxi fare.  Although dividing the cost of our cab rides between four people is very manageable. We walked around the neighborhood for something to eat, when we did what you're not supposed to do, get told by a waiter in English to come in and dine there.  But it was a no bs sort of place, without a service/bread charge so that was cool.  We dined outside, where like 80 % of the people were American or Canadians, and the other 20% were tourists, so obviously this place isn't very good.  I've only had Amatriciana in Rome, and could rank this one as the worst.  The Guanciale was like American bacon, and the type of pasta they used sucks, it should be Bucatini.  But we chatted with the Canadians next to us, who had only been in Rome for less than a week.   They kept getting free Limoncello shots, so we joked with our waiter where was ours. And after that, he brought us shots, on the house.  Limoncello straight is pretty bad, the after taste is horrible, but then we joked with our waiter to bring us another round. And well, he actually did so that was cool. The Canadian people didn't leave the guy much of a tip, if not, they might not have even left him a tip. But we left him a 12 euro tip on a 66, because he gave us two free shots, and there wasn't any service charge. He was extremely grateful for it, so it was not big deal leaving an extra 3 euro trip from the four of us.  Everyone was actually awake enough to walk around Rome with some beers, nobody was complaining about being tired, and we made it to the two popular American bars, the Drunken Ship, and Scholars Lounge.  Scholars Lounge was dead, but that's because it was a Monday night.  The Drunken Ship had a pretty big crowd, but it was like all Americans. Some drunk ass American dude was even pissing on the wall at the bar, and giving all Americans a bad name for that shit.  We came to the conclusion, that we don't really care to drink with fellow Americans, and rather enjoy speaking to locals in their broken English. Our last night for this part of Rome was pretty cool, I don't know if Trastevere is big on my lists of stuff to visit again, because I'd rather eat cheap in the Testaccio neighborhood.  But our apartment was cool, and it's a rather lively neighborhood, kind of disapointed we only ate at one of the places that was a Craft Beer & Food place, but whatever. I just know, that I didn't hit half the sites I wanted to visit in Rome, and I need a lot more than 4/5 days in the city to even come close to the attempt.  It's fine though, I'm excited for hiking in Croatia, and can't wait for my return to Firenze.  And our 1 day trips in Rome/Munich.

I tried going to go the Santa Luigi dei Francesi church to see some Caravaggio works, but the church wasn't open yet.  But I got to go to the Santa Maria Sopra Minerva this time without being kicked out so that was awesome.  It has Michelangelo's Christ the Redeemer statue, the funerary grave of Fra Angelico, the head of Saint Catherine, and the tombs of the two Medici popes.







We got to check out the Santa Maria in Trastevere before we left the neighborhood.  It's a very old historical church with some very neat signage, where tons of drunk people hang out at night.





Sunday, June 2, 2013

Terzo Giorno

Day three in Roma.  We started the day off walking towards the Colosseum in hopes of finding public transportation to take us to the train station, Termini, and were greeted by the parade for Repubblica Day at the Piazza Venezia.


We've now seen a protest and a parade there, and traffic not move at all.  Luckily, we caught a bus to the train station.  They had some breakfast, before we got on the metro to Piazza Spagna.  We then somehow had to walk to the Borghese Gallery, and didn't really know how to get there.  We eventually ended up in the Villa Borghese, before making our way to the Borghese Gallery.


It's a pretty nice and straight forward walk to the museum actually.  We got in line, our reservations went through no problem, and we had to wait a few minutes before entering. We started at the picture gallery, because everyone starts on the bottom where more of the famous works are.  There was some cool stuff, the highlight up there was probably a portrait of Pope Julius II by Raphael, or his Disposition painting.  After we cruised through the top, we went to the bottom floor. Here there is a bunch of famous Bernini statues and stuff.  Some cool stuff were like the Rape of Persophone, these ancient Gladiator floor mosaics, and the room dedicated to Caravaggio paintings.  His David and Goliath painting is amazing, dark, gruesome, and it looks like Hugh Jackman was beheaded.  I also like his painting of Saint Jerome in his study, the skull in the painting is just so dark.


After this, we went to Piazza Spagna, and walked up Via del Corso to find some place for lunch.  We ended up at some Osteria Gusto that got insanely packed as soon as we ordered. It was pretty much all Italians, so I guess it was off the beaten path. It was good, but a little pricy compared to Trastevere.  After this, we went to the Ara Pacis so I could finally see it. The Altar of Peace is one of Emperor Augustus's crowning monuments, and it's been rebuild twice since the 20th century, after Mussolini had it re-constructed. I've studied the piece before in art history, but it was really cool seeing it in person.  It's a very bare museum, but you're only there to look at one piece, and the piece is really nice to look at.  



We walked up the street to Piazza del Popolo after, to see the Obelisks/Fountains, but the main reason we went there was to look at a church that was still on siesta break. So I still haven't seen those famous Caravaggio's or the Chigi chapel yet.


David and Jeremy were done after this, and took the metro to the train station to catch a taxi home. Julian and I decided to go exploring a little bit more.  We went to the Santa Maria della Concezione first, to look at the insane Cappucin Crypt.  It's one of the craziest things you'll ever see, just a bunch of monk skeletons/bones decorated to form chapels, and other creepy stuff.  It's crazy when you can still see the skin on some skulls, but there is thousands of different monks bones on display there.  One of the most awe inspiring things you'll ever see.

 After this, we went to the San Giovanni in Laterano basilica.  It's the former papal residence, and one of the big 4 churches of Rome.  The whole roof is gilded with gold, and the it has some crazy statues of all the apostles.  It was a really dope museum, and I got to see all I wanted there including the former bronze doors of the Roman senate.








I got to see the Scala Scanta too, or the holy steps that Jesus Christ once walked up before he was presented to Pontius Pilate.  Here, pilgrims must walk up the steps only on their knees.  I of course am no pilgrim, so I all did was watch.


 After this, went to the Trevi Fountain again, where at least this time it wasn't dumping.

 We then walked to the Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, and it closed as soon as we got in for service. So I still can't get a good picture of the altarpiece of Saint Catherine of Siena.  We walked to Piazza Navona, so I could look for another church featuring Caravaggios, but we got lost for a good 10 minutes trying to find it.  By the time we got there, the church worker had already closed the side where the Caravaggios were.  So I was 0-4 on Caravaggio paintings in churches today



...My feet are in loads of pain from all the walking, but it's whatever,  I passed out as soon as I made it to the apartment though.  After this, we walked to some restaurant with Birra in the title for dinner, and I had some nice pasta along with some German Beer, 'Dab'  mixed with strawberry syrup.  It wasn't bad, and it was a satisfying end of the night.  Still haven't really gone out and explored the bar scene here, since we're so tired, but at least we're making use of the cheap neighborhood restaurants.  Arriverdeci.